By Ettagale Blauer

ISBN-10: 0442003625

ISBN-13: 9780442003623

The Phenomenon of Studio Goldsmithing while the heritage of artwork within the Eighties is written, a lot of will probably be etched in gold. this can be the time of the modern goldsmith, an artist who chooses to paintings in worthwhile metals instead of oils or marble. The modern jeweler-as-artist has just recently turn into a re­ cognized strength. With infrequent exceptions, the complete box is little greater than thirty years outdated. however it is simply in the earlier fifteen years that those jewelers have entered the jewellery mainstream. The phenomenon of up to date goldsmithing embraces an eclectic crew of artists, each one with a special imaginative and prescient, each one taking a in line with­ sonal route to jewellery generating. they've got as little courting to the common, heavily produced jewellery as a champagne maker has to a bottler of orange soda. They procedure a bit of paintings, now not a bit of steel. The paintings is own and an ideal expression of the "back to the land" stream that spawned it. a lot of those goldsmiths have been taking a look now not in basic terms for how to make a dwelling yet for how to make a existence that used to be important of residing. operating a company whereas attempting to stay an artistic metalsmith while is the continued problem. The jeweler-artists have solved or resolved those frequently conflicting wishes in a bit other ways and in a gorgeous number of innovations and kinds. Their meth­ ods, their progress, and their paintings are mentioned the following.

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It needed oversight, and as it grew too big for the space allotted to it, it needed a neutral body to make the thumbs-up decisions. Sedestrom, herself a craftsperson, knows firsthand the joys and dilemmas of selling work in an open tent. Rosen came out of the advertising business and, from the first, saw the crafts field as a promising business opportunity. Ironically, although she appeared to be the upstart when she started her first show in 1982 in a hotel in Baltimore, she has not had to compromise any of her own beliefs.

But with the emphasis on ever-bigger events, and with costs increasing, albeit more modestly at these shows than at those held in union-run facilities, many jewelers have found themselves pressured to make production lines. Many have shifted away from oneof-a-kind work or limited editions to production work. The change is not merely in the quantity of merchandise but in the very nature of the design ethic in back of it. This stems from the explosion of craftspeople onto the marketplace. The progress of organic growth has been replaced by a need for instant gratification.

In the world of commercial jewelry, this is unheard of. At traditional jewelry retailers, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the jewelry is identified as a product of the store selling it; the style that of the purveyor rather than the maker. At the galleries, the makers' names are exalted; moreover, the customer can actually meet the maker, discuss the jewelry, and in general become a patron of the arts rather than just a shopper. It proved to be a heady experience for a small group of women who found their personalities and styles expressed in this jewelry.

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Contemporary American Jewelry Design by Ettagale Blauer


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